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“Strange days”: that could be the licensed eyewear industry in a title, as seen at the latest MIDO, the International eyewear trade fair.
The opening tell-tale images in our gallery show how all the global fashion brands are safely hosted by a very small number of key global players such as Luxottica, Marcolin, Safilo, Marchon, De Rigo. “Safely” could be too nice a word, though, seeing that the big luxury groups are striving to take direct control of the business . It is no mistery since September 2014, when Kering founded its Kering Eyewear business naming Roberto Vedovotto as its CEO; Safilo was the first victim at that time, losing Gucci license two years before its natural expiration.
In that scenario, Philipp Plein is launching his own eyewear range on his own, with a brand new business division (which includes the owned brand Billionaire) to keep design and commercial strategies consistent with the overall brand strategies.
Vertical integration seems to be the name of the game for the eyewear industry as well, while Luxottica is playing in the two sides of the equation, acquiring both companies in the distribution business and Essilor in manufacturing. Every company with own brands in good shapes (own brands accounted one fourth of Safilo total business in 2015,with the objective of reaching 50% in 2020) is trying to consolidate with focused communication (see the Police- De Rigo booth in our reportage) and with special editions and collaborations, as Italia Independent showcases since its birth.
So, what’s ahead for licensing business in the eyewear industry? Automotive, sports and lifestyle “mainstream” licensing seems to be roofed as well as fashion. Local heroes and niche upscale licensing (see Linda Farrow brand portfolio) will increase their influence, but systematic collaborations and co-branded activities are for sure to be pursued from both ends. Interesting the case of Ally and Son, brand of ex-Allison now AVM 1959, with blogger Mariano Di Vaio, starting a long term license in 2017 from a co-branded capsule collection launched 2016. Or Etnia Barcelona, “the fourth highest selling brand in European independent optical”, with its homage to Basquiat, stays true to its colorful brand essence.
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